Žižkov: from workers' hill to Prague's most self-aware district

Žižkov's reputation is mostly a matter of attitude. It was a working-class suburb with strong opinions long before it was fashionable, and Praguers have teased it for generations over its pubs, its steep streets and its supposed independence from the rest of the city. The teasing is affectionate.

A hill with a general's name

The district takes its name from Jan Žižka of Trocnov, the Hussite commander who fought on the hill above the city in 1420. The hill, Vítkov, was the site of a battle in which Hussite forces defeated the army of King Sigismund. The story is part of the national narrative and is covered in a wider way in the short history of Czechia.

For centuries the area was farmland and vineyards. In the 19th century the arrival of the railways, the factories along the track and a growing population of workers turned it into one of Prague's densest suburbs. Žižkov became a separate municipality in the late 19th century, with its own town hall and its own character. In 1922 it was absorbed into Greater Prague.

Density as a design

The first thing you notice in Žižkov is how closely the buildings sit. The streets were laid out to maximise the number of plots, and the houses that filled them were tenement blocks for workers, five or six storeys tall, built tightly along steep streets. The flats were originally small and modest, and many were without private bathrooms. Over the course of the 20th century and after 1990 they have been modernised and often combined.

What survives is a dense urban fabric that is different from the grander tenement streets of Vinohrady next door. Flats tend to be smaller, and the façades are plainer. You find Art Nouveau houses and more modern infill between them. Our piece on Vinohrady offers a direct comparison.

The district also includes pockets of communist-era housing and a number of former industrial sites. One of the large former railway sites, the Žižkov freight station, has long been discussed as a redevelopment area, and its future is a matter for the city's spatial planning; see how Prague's spatial plan works.

The landmarks

The television tower. The Žižkov Television Tower is 216 metres high, completed in the early 1990s after construction that began in the 1980s, and visible from most parts of the city. For years it was a target of local complaint, and it has also become something of an emblem. In the early 2000s the artist David Černý added a series of large babies that crawl up its legs, which has since become part of the tower's identity. The tower has an observation deck and a restaurant, with opening hours and prices to be checked with the operator.

Vítkov hill. The National Monument stands on top of the hill, with a large equestrian statue of Jan Žižka in front of it, unveiled in the middle of the 20th century. The monument was built in the interwar years as a memorial and later used for ceremonies of state. Today it hosts exhibitions about modern Czech history. The hill is a public park with views over the city.

The cemeteries. In the eastern part of Žižkov stand the Olšany cemeteries, among the largest in Prague. They were founded at the end of the 17th century and expanded afterwards, and they contain the graves of many well-known figures. Our piece on Prague cemeteries and monuments as public heritage describes the main sites.

Getting around

Žižkov is well connected but not by one line. Metro A touches the edge of the district at Jiřího z Poděbrad and Flora, and trams run along the main streets. The slopes are steep, and the walk from the metro to many addresses is longer than it looks on a map. Hlavní nádraží, the main station, is a short distance away, which makes the district practical for rail travellers; see Prague railway stations explained.

The trams guide and the metro guide explain the network in more detail. Most of Žižkov falls under the Prague 3 district office, which you will deal with for administrative tasks.

Renting and buying

We do not quote prices here, because they move constantly. The older flats are often smaller, and buyers should check the condition of the building, the owners' association and the service charges. The guide to service charges and building funds explains what to ask.

For those moving to the area, how to rent a flat in Czechia as a foreigner sets out the process, including deposits and contracts. If you are thinking about buying, Hypoteky.com has a step-by-step guide to a first mortgage, an overview and not advice.

What it is like to live there

Žižkov is lively, hilly and varied. The ground floors of many buildings house pubs, small shops and cafes. Parks such as Parukářka, a hill with a beer garden and views, give the area some green space. The district has a strong sense of local community, with a number of neighbourhood associations and cultural events.

The downsides are the ones you would expect of a dense district: noise on the main streets, difficult parking and the steepness of the streets for people with mobility problems. Prague's parking zones cover most of the district.

A walk through the district

Žižkov is best understood on foot, and a route is easy to build from its landmarks. Start at the Olšany cemeteries in the east, where the avenues of old trees and family tombs give a sense of the 19th-century city. Walk west toward the television tower, which you will see for most of the route and which acts as a compass. Climb to Parukářka, the hill park beside the tower, for the view across the roofs, then continue down toward the main station and, if you have energy, up Vítkov hill to the National Monument.

The route covers perhaps half a dozen steep streets, and you will notice what the hills do to the district: tenements stepped down the slopes, staircases between streets, small squares formed where roads meet at odd angles. These are the reasons why Žižkov's streets feel more irregular than the regular grid of Vinohrady, although both were built in the same period.

The climbs are real. If you plan to live here, walk from the address to the nearest tram stop and shop, and imagine it in winter with bags.

Frequently asked questions

Why is it called Žižkov?

After Jan Žižka, the Hussite commander who defeated an imperial army on Vítkov hill in 1420.

Is the TV tower open to visitors?

It has an observation deck and a restaurant. Check the operator's website for current opening hours and ticket prices.

Which district office covers Žižkov?

Most of Žižkov belongs to Prague 3, with some parts in neighbouring districts. Check the exact address.

Is Žižkov safe?

It is a central, mixed district, so the usual city care applies around transport hubs. Judge a specific street by visiting it at different times of day.

For a first visit, take metro A to Jiřího z Poděbrad, walk up to the TV tower, then continue to Vítkov hill for the view across the Old Town. The change from Vinohrady shows within half a kilometre.