Czechs no longer believe that sheep and goats are only good for milk production and welcome lamb mutton dishes.
“Several head chefs are responsible for bringing lamb back on Czech tables,” says food critic Vladimír Poštulka. One of these culinary apostles is Zdeněk Pohlreich. His leg of lamb on rosemary has become the flagship of the menu at his restaurant Café Imperial.
Chefs have helped overcome the myths that Czechs have about goat and lamb meat. One of these myths was that lamb and goat meat smell bad.
A few years on, these types of meat are at the centre of culinary interest, along with the Czechs’ interest in Mediterranean cuisine and fresh fruit, and grilled rack of lamb or lamb chops are stealing the hearts of conservative Czech diners.
Steaks form Šumava
Legs of raw meat hang from the ceiling and other cuts of meat lie around in the refrigerated display. “Four steaks,” a dark-complexioned by the counter man mumbles for himself and carefully selects pieces of meat.
He has been coming to the Prague shop Halal Farh for lamb meat for years. Only the last few years, when it became clear that Czechs have learned to appreciate lamb meat, have brought Czech competition to this small shop with Oriental specialties.
Today most supermarkets sell cuts of lamb, and around Easter, lamb seems to be everywhere.
Gradually, more and more meat counters are stocked with lamb and mutton from local producers. “New Zealand or Australian lamb meat isn’t as good as meat from Šumava,” says Poštulka, explaining why Czech producers are pushing out foreign competition.
Šumava lamb has become something of a brand in the last few years. It is popular among Prague chefs and even regular home cooks, charmed by the thought of lambs roaming the meadows of a Czech national park, eating wild herbs.
“Around Easter we were selling goat mean from north Bohemia, but we only carry lamb from Šumava,” says chef Andrea Accordi, who last year received the Czech Republic’s first Michelin star at his restaurant Allegro.
He serves racks of young lamb, for instance, baked in a lavender and lemon crust.
With herbs
Czech producers are aware of the growing demand. According to last year’s statistics, they are gradually switching from sheep breeds raised mainly for their wool to ones known for high quality meat.
Last year, almost 40% of the sheep were from breeds raised mainly for meat. In 1989 it was only 1%.
The increase in average lamb and goat meat consumption isn’t that high, though. The average Czech eats 200 to 300 grams of lamb each year. That’s less than a tenth of the European average. And even though Czechs are trying out lamb or goat recipes with coconut, for instance, most stick to traditional recipes, with lovage, coriander, parsley and other herbs.
Another good ingredient to incorporate is garlic, which can complement the aromas of curry, chili, mustard or ginger.
